To enjoy what is likely to be the last of the summer days, I was invited along to historic Rochester with my Uncle (aka The Old Git) and Auntie Margaret (AM).
While living in London is nothing short of fantastic, on the weekends it is always nice to be able to pop outside of the Big Smoke.
It’s become tradition that we meet at Wetherspoons before setting off on a walk. We lined our stomachs at The Willow (note to self, this is not the loud, stag go-ers, football fans, spoons located in the station…) and caught the 45 minutes train journey from Victoria
On this trip we took in two pubs – one of the oldest pubs in Kent and the other with one of the most passionate bar tenders in Kent. We finished the night off at an old favourite in Victoria.
Rochester is a beautiful little town on the River Medway and a was a popular place to stop among royalty over the years on their way to London. Not only that, it is the place Charles Dickens grew up and later used this quaint place to base many scenes from his books. As you walk around the town, see how many Dickens references you can spot!
As you walk out of the station follow the signs to the high street and the first thing you will notice is the 12th century castle (which is fantastic) – and across from there the huge 11th century cathedral. After you’ve seen this, walk along the high street and look up! The buildings, some of which date from the 14th century, reminded me of York. Unlike York, among the hustle and bustle, you can still walk around at ease popping into the many second-hand book shops and the really good tourist info office.
10 Margaret Street
Situated up a little street nearby the cathedral, The Cooper Arms opened and started serving cask beer in 1543, but dates back to 1199. On a trip to the toilet be sure to check out the list of all the Innkeepers going back to that time.
As you walk in The Cooper Arms will automatically strike you as a locals pub. Everyone seemed to know each other but was really friendly. You’d think on a Saturday it would be heaving with tourists, but this was not the case at all. There are two bars, we opted for the back bar, and upon looking at the choice of beer (of which there were four or five handpumps) me and The Old Git opted for a pint of the 500 Pale Ale by The Canterbury Ales, a limited edition at £3.85 a pint.
This pint was beautiful – fresh, light and a session ale even at its higher percentage of 4%. If you spot this one, grab a pint of it. It certainly won’t disappoint.
Although we would’ve loved another pint of this, we were on a mission, so therefore needed to make the most of the different ales on offer. We opted for Thwaites Wainwright, 4.1% at £3.85. A light, golden ale. Very enjoyable but we agreed that the 500 was the way to go.
On route to the next pub we were lucky enough to see The Knife Angel – an incredible sculpture touring the country which represents an Angel constructed of knives. The project by British Ironwork Centre (Iron Works), and artist Alfie Bradley, is to raise awareness about the current knife crime epidemic in the UK. To make the sculpture, Ironworks set up ‘knife banks’ across the country where people could surrender their knives.
The point? To make sure the laws change before more people lose their lives because of knife crime. This piece of work is breath-taking. To see over 200 hundred knives – which could’ve taken many lives – which have been blunted to create such a thought-provoking piece of art is incredible. At the time of writing, knife crime is on the rise AGAIN. Something of which effects my hometown of Sheffield greatly.
Moving on to the next pub…
6 John Street
Not to be confused with The Man of Kent in Tonbridge, this pub is a hidden gem. You, nor the locals it would seem, would know where to find it. But we eventually stumbled across it. On a first glance it looks closed. We, however, persevered and were welcomed by a chap from the Dickens era. He knew his beer and was incredibly passionate about it. Among the 11 or so handpumps, we spotted the 500 sold at the previous pub and decided to not the fall into the trap of familiarity. We opted for the Tonbridge Kentish Ale *I’m not overly convinced this is the name but it’s OK as neither of us liked this one* and The Second Coming.
The Second Coming, brewed by Angel & Demons, was a 4.5% and very good. Especially in comparison to Tonbridge Kentish Ale. But on its own, anyone would be chuffed to have picked this. For someone who isn’t a massive fan of IPA, this beer was an incredibly subtle version which was sip worthy. It also came recommended by the bartender, who was fantastic.
As a former bartender, I appreciate that working the bar isn’t the most glamourous job, but this guy was fab. As we entered the bar, he was so passionate about all the beers. Every beer at this pub is from Kent, so anything you buy means you’re supporting local businesses. My eyes darted to the Paulaner… upon noticing this the bartender hastened to add that they do have beers outside of CT16 however, the renowned and fantastic local brewer, Gadds’ of Ramsgate, does swapsies. A pallet for a pallet with other breweries so it all counts.
Next round, we opted for the Gadd’s Kentish Ale – which just so happened to be the bartender’s favourite. He was a fellow Northerner and it upset him very much that this was his favourite beer. A southern one. ‘This is how a bitter should taste’ he commented. How could we not have a sample after that recommendation – from a Northerner? It was incredibly good. But was it as good as a Timmy Taylors? The Jury’s out.
Our time in Rochester came to an end. And for those wondering, there was no tap room at Rochester, but we did grab a coffee for the journey home. Upon arrival at Victoria we ventured to a safe haven known as the Windsor Castle.
23 Francis Street, Westminster
…is a Sam Smith’s of Tadcaster pub. If ever in doubt, head to a Sam Smith’s. Sam likes to keep his pubs looking Victorian – and the pints are as cheap as chips. The Windsor Castle still has little compartments which is a feature you don’t see in many pubs. Alongside etched glassed windows, big mirrors and wood paneling it screams ‘traditional English pub’. You’ll be welcomed by great bartenders, guaranteed a good pint of the Old brewery Best Bitter and enjoy a cosy atmosphere.
Five or six pints in, this trip sadly came to an end. Rochester, however, will be a place to revisit.
Beer, there and everywhere 